Corfu is not often a name you see on the lists of best places to go in Greece. And yet this year, we will be returning for the third time. Because north Corfu is beautiful, but not in a way you typically imagine when you think of Greece.
Corfu, to me, conjures up images of waterfront seafood and tzatziki dinners, toes in the shingles and a rust-coloured sunset lighting up the mountains of Albania. It’s hopping on a water taxi to a remote bay where a single traditional taverna has been welcoming guests for decades. It’s glistening green ocean backed by pine and olive tree-covered mountains. It’s a charming hilltop villa with private infinity pool for less than £1500 per week.
Are you starting to see why we like it?
Corfu holidays are also super convenient. Multiple airlines offer direct flights from the UK and we’ve found both package deals and villa rentals on this island far more affordable than other parts of Greece.
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Our favourite place in Corfu
On both of our previous visits to Corfu we based ourselves in Kalami, a small bay in the north of the island that has a handful of traditional tavernas and more trendy eateries like Callao Corfu and The White House Restaurant.
If you’ve ever watched the TV show The Durrell’s you may recognise Kalami Bay, as The White House Restaurant is found in the former residence of Laurence Durrell.
We love this area because it’s laidback and relatively peaceful but there is an array of waterfront eateries that make every meal special. Amenities including 2 small supermarkets and a tour office are found directly behind the beach. And you can catch water taxis from the wobbly piers to explore the local area, so you don’t need to hire a car if you don’t want to drive through the mountains.
You can fly and flop to the adults-only San Antonio Resort like we did on our first trip, or you can stay in one of the traditional villas dotted throughout the hills like we did on our second visit. (More details below.)
There’s accommodation for every type of budget and they all share the most incredible views, which is what I love most about Kalami. The views. My goodness, I can never get enough of those sunsets.
Best things to do in North Corfu
The best thing to do in North Corfu is to explore all the gorgeous secluded bays and swimming spots dotted along the north coast of the island.
There are a couple of main options for getting around. You can join a boat trip from Kassiopi, hire your own boat from San Stefano, hop in a water taxi from larger tourist resorts like Paleokastritsa, or hire a car and drive like we did.
Some of the most beautiful places to visit in North Corfu are:
Bataria Beach in Kassiopi
Perched on a peninsular on the north-west tip of Corfu, the water on Bataria Beach is crystal clear and was the perfect temperature for swimming even at the end of September. There are sunloungers for rent and parking nearby so it’s a convenient spot if you’re driving around the island. Bring water shoes though – those pebbles are a killer on the feet!
For lunch head to Kassopi, where you’ll find a number of restaurants looking out over the picturesque harbour. Then, burn off the calories with a walk around the ruins of the Byzantine castle afterwards.
Kassopi is also the best place for shopping in north Corfu. It’s not a huge resort town but there are a few lovely boutiques selling jewellery, beachwear and souvenirs.
Liapades & Rovinia Beach
Liapades Beach, found on Corfu’s north-west coast, south of the resort of Paleokastritsa, is like nowhere else I’ve ever been in Greece. It’s a relatively small, organised beach that I imagine can get crowded during peak season, but, my goodness, this setting has to be seen to believed.
Tall, tree-lined limestone cliffs surround the emerald green water. It felt somewhat Italian or Balkan due to the landscape, but the gyros and mythos meal deal (a bargain at 3.90 Euro) the beachfront restaurants offer leave you in no doubt of your location.
Parking can be difficult around here. We managed to get parked up the hill near the village but it is a steep walk back to the car at the end of the day. If you’re staying in or visiting Paleokastritsa, you might find it easier to visit Liapades via a water taxi.
We hopped in a water taxi from Liapades to visit neighbouring Rovinia Beach. It’s a super quick and scenic journey to Rovinia, which has nothing there apart from a canteen boat serving frappe and snacks, if you’re lucky. Many people choose to hike from Liapades to Rovinia as it offers the best views of Liapades Beach, but having checked out the path we decided not to do it with a toddler.
If you have more time, a boat trip along the coast to beaches south of Liapades is one of the most popular things to do in North Corfu. Chomi Beach is backed by huge limestone cliffs and is absolutely stunning.
Porto Timoni
North of Paleokastritsa are the twin beaches of Porto Timoni that are best enjoyed from the Porto Timoni Viewpoint. We are yet to make it here as I’ve either been pregnant or with a toddler on our trips to Corfu and it’s a steep 20-minute hike down from the scenic hilltop village of Afionas to get there. It’s on the list for our next visit though. Just look at it!
Old Perithia
For something a bit different head to the once-abandoned historic mountain village of Old Perithia.
Old Perithia is known as Corfu’s oldest village. It was settled back in the 14th century but became abandoned around the 1960s when tourism on the coast became more popular.
After a boutique hotel opened in the ‘ghost town’ in 2010 it’s enjoyed somewhat of a tourism resurgence. Today, you’ll find 5 little tavernas and a couple of souvenir shops dotted in-between the ancient churches and abandoned stone buildings.
It’s a popular spot for mountain hiking but also just an interesting place to come for a traditional Corfiat lunch, which is what we did.
Corfu Town
Although technically in the middle of the island, you can’t come to Corfu and not explore Corfu Town, even if it’s just for a few hours before flying home like we did.
Corfu Town is found half way down the east coast of the island, in a strategic position at the mouth of the Adriatic Sea, which means it has been under the control of almost everyone from the Romans, to Normans, Venetians, French and British. They each left their mark on the Old Town’s fascinating architecture, which is an eclectic mix of pastel-coloured Venetian houses, ancient stone fortresses, British palaces and Greek Orthodox churches.
Join a walking tour to learn more about this fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Site. Or simply get lost in the laneways with a gyros in hand, soaking up the atmosphere.
Best day trips from North Corfu
In terms of day trips from Corfu, you are spoilt for choice with a number of excursions that include boat trips to neighbouring Greek islands such as Paxos and Antipaxos, Parga on the Greek mainland, or even a visit to Albania.
We had our heart set on this popular day trip to Paxos, Antipaxos and the Blue Caves but unfortunately Corfu experienced some really bad weather in late September last year and the boat trips were cancelled.
Again, one for the list for our next visit.
Best restaurants in North Corfu
Our favourite thing to do in Corfu is to choose a different beachfront taverna to dine at every evening. From Kalami you can take a taxi boat to the traditional seafront tavernas in Agni, where you’ll find not only enjoy gorgeous food and sunset views, but getting whooshed back home in the dark after dinner adds a little thrill to the evening!
Our favourite places to dine in this part of the island are:
Callao Corfu – I absolutely love the chic, chilled vibes at this all-day beachfront bar and restaurant in Kalami. With a modern Mediterranean menu, the food here is seriously good and goes down perfectly with the exceptional sunset views. Don’t miss their Corfu Spritz, made with kumquat liqueur and ginger beer. It’s simply delicious.
The White House – One of the most sophisticated restaurants in this part of Corfu also has an enviable waterfront position and oodles of history too. The former Durrell residence is now an upmarket eatery where you can drop by on a boat for breakfast, lunch or dinner or simply stop by for a coffee and a swim. It’s an absolute must-visit in this part of Corfu and the lovely thing is families are welcome too.
Dimitri’s Restaurant – High on the hills above Kalami is Dimitri’s Restaurant. Here you can enjoy their signature DIY gyros with stunning views out to Albania. We love that they offer a free transfer from your accommodation up to the restaurant with loveable Georgios.
Taverna Agni – Our favourite place to dine on Agni Bay is Taverna Agni. (We’ve also dined at the popular Nikolas Taverna in Agni and were disappointed with the food and service.) Their seafood and bbq grill are excellent and the taxi boat back home in the dark after dinner really is a ride!
Kalami Beach Taverna – For a more traditional Greek dining experience on the waterfront in Kalami, we recommend the Kalami Beach Taverna.
Cavo Barbaro – Situated on secluded Avlaki Beach is hidden gem Cavo Barbaro, which is a friendly, family-run restaurant with lots of repeat guests. We loved the desserts and the views at the restaurant, and also the intriguing drive to get there. Our route to Cavo Barbaro from our villa took us through the Erimitis Peninsular – one of the last remaining undeveloped corners of Corfu – and past a hugely stately-looking estate I have since learned belongs to the Rothchilds.
Eucalyptus Seaside Taverna – Tucked away in the corner of San Stefano Harbour is the traditional olive press of the Petropoulos family, which has been operating as a taverna since 1983. With a focus on seafood and local ingredients, Eucalyptus was a fab recommendation from our hosts.
Note: I would recommend making restaurant reservations online in advance if you can – even it’s just on the day. If you plan to take the taxi boat to Agni or free transfer to Dimitri’s you’ll need to request these in advance too.
Where we’ve stayed in north Corfu
On our first visit to Corfu we stayed at the adults-only San Antonio Resort right on Kalami Bay. You can find a full review here.
For our more recent visit we stayed in the family-friendly Artist’s House at Villa Rastoni.
Perched on a mountainside in-between Kassiopi and Kalami, this 2-bedroom villa has incredible views from the huge outdoor terrace and stunning infinity pool. But I must admit the drive to get there is rather hairy, so you want to be a confident driver to book this property. (You can book local taxis to get around but this adds up quickly.)
In September 2023 we’ll be heading back to Corfu once again and doing something we’ve never done before in Greece – staying at a family-friendly all-inclusive property.
When I read about the brand-new Ikos Odisia opening in Corfu in May 2023 I changed my tune about all-inclusive hotels in Greece not being for me. Ikos are known for their award-winning, ultra, all-inclusive lifestyle packages that includes everything from a la carte meals created by Michelin-starred chefs, to 24/7 room service, kids club, dine out programmes and complimentary car hire. The hotel is surrounded by cypress trees on a jewel-like bay in Dassia. I can’t wait to check it out and will let you know my verdict once we visit in September.
Where to stay in Corfu
I’ve done a lot of research on Corfu holidays and these are my top picks for hotels on the island:
San Antonio Resort – affordable, luxury adults-only hotel with infinity pool
Angsana Corfu Resort & Spa – luxury hotel with stunning infinity pool
Ikos Odisia or Ikos Dassia – best luxury all-inclusive hotels
MarBella Corfu – luxury, clifftop hotel with incredible views
Domes of Corfu, Autograph Collection – chic, minimalist hotel in Glyfada
Cook’s Club Corfu – Trendy, adult’s-only hotel in Gouvia
Read next:
Where to go in Greece – 5 family-friendly alternatives to Mykonos and Santorini
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Thank you for all the great information! We are going to Corfu in September and I will be definitely using your guide for where to stay, where to eat, and what to do. Thanx!!!
You’re welcome! Have a wonderful time x